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![]() 2003 ARCHIVES for those who are just catching up on our travelogues. There are lots of pictures, so be patient -- archive pages might take a few minutes to finish loading. For the webmaster's convenience (and why not?), entries are presented in reverse chronological order; in other words, if you prefer to read the whole story from the beginning, start at the end! NOTE: These old archives will eventually be moved into the new Blogger travelblog, but in the meantime, they are presented here for your pleasure. (To read about our more recent travels, click on the View from the Peak button at left.) |
September 22, 2003 Independence, MO
Susan, Cory and Samantha (a little girl whose mother DIDN'T want to ride an elephant) mount up at the KC Renaissance Festival.
And no, I wasn't CHICKEN--but I had the camera! And isn't Susan looking great? She's lost 70 pounds since the first of the year!
Sister Gwen in the dining room of her beautiful new house in Lawrence.
The Lawrence, Kansas Aussie pack--from left, that's Zachary, Autumn, Maddie and Sky Valentine. (There's nothing wrong with Autumn's eye--the camera just caught her in a blink.) September 6, 2003 Tinley Park, IL September 3, 2003 Mackinack Bridge, MI Here's how the big bridge looked from inside the B.A.T. The road was familiar, so my navigator went off duty. Ever wondered how three dogs fit in the backseat of the B.A.T.? They get a little cozy. August 15, 2003 Sault Ste
Marie, Michigan So our plans to visit the eastern seaboard this summer have been postponed. We've lots of time, after all. The front view of our new home--the house faces south, the best direction when the Canadian border is only a mile to the north. The house sits on a double lot, so the yard is HUGE! This view is taken from just inside the northeast corner of our back fence. The screenhouse is 14x14 inside, screened all around and glassed on every wall but the south (facing the sliding patio door off the family room). It's also wired and has a light and ceiling fan. It will be the perfect spot to host summer barbeques. Primary requirement--there must be room for the 5er! As you can see, we stayed quite comfortably in the front drive (after one of Cory's cousins came out and added a 50amp plug outside the garage for us--until then, it was HOT without A/C.) The silo-like structure to the right is the original Sault Ste. Marie water tower, constructed in the 1860s, and behind the trailer you can just see the spire and roof of the Seventh Day Adventist church, which owns the empty land to the east of our house. The family room was our biggest project--the only wall that wasn't wood paneled was papered...badly. We tried to strip and paint, but finally gave up and paneled it with this striped wallboard. Turned out nicely... The kitchen is very large. The electric range will eventually have to be swapped out for gas, and we'd like to find a way to lighten the dark color of the cabinets (without painting--they're oak), but the layout is convenient and there is plenty of room for ALL Cory's appliances and gadgets. At the far right end is a closet that contains the washer/dryer. The dining room is small, but we've never had one before, so we love it! At the left is a built-in computer hutch--handy for the high-tech cook! The living room is large and well lighted. Note the built-in bookcase near the hallway and the ceramic tiles at the entry. The smallest of the three bedrooms took up a good bit of our rehab time. The closet needed to be stripped of shelving, repainted, and a rod rehung. And these built-in cabinets were looking a bit sad. This is the BEFORE... And this is the AFTER! June 16, 2003 Sycamore, Illinois We had Cory's nephews for a week, and naturally, we went to the water park. Ask Cory how she enjoyed the ride! May 17, 2003 Grain Valley, Missouri We remarked on the 15th that the anniversary was coming, then on the 19th that it had passed...and both agreed that it hardly feels like we've been traveling for a full year.We're still having a great time, still looking forward to the next destination, still making notes on the things we didn't see or do in every area so we can see and do them "when we come back." And there are so many places we want to go back to... May 5, 2003 Tunica, Mississippi Meanwhile, we are counting our blessings--we saw Jackson, Tennessee BEFORE the tornado hit there last night! The same storm front nailed us with hail and winds heavy enough to rock us in our sleep last night--Cory got up and retracted the TV antenna because she was afraid it would be ripped off! Thank goodness, no funnels here. You know those things arrive and ask, "Where's the trailer park?"! April 25, 2003 Tunica Mississippi A few days has turned into a few weeks. On day 4, while getting us hitched up to move out, I stepped into a hole in the lawn and twisted my right ankle. (The hole was invisible because the mower had cut all the grass to the same level.) It swelled so fast and hurt so bad that I was sure something was broken, but the x-rays said not. I was on crutches for a couple of days, then said "the he** with that." Limped around pitifully for a week or so, wrapping and icing when home, but I'm now walking fine, with only a little residual pain and swelling each day. However, I tried to drive again yesterday and that's still too much for me. So we're just staying put for a while, until I'm healed. Cory's been doing the driving for our daily running around, but she's not ready to take on the driving with the rig behind us! We're not grumbling, because we're in a fun spot. This is the gambling mecca of the South and if Antoinette hadn't clued us in, we'd never even have known it was here. It's about a half-hour south of Memphis, and there are 9 different, Vegas-style casino complexes here, all on their own huge acreages, scattered along a 10-12 mile tangle of nicely improved back-country roads. There's no town here, not even a bar or grocery store, just cotton and soybean fields and an occasional gas station in between the Grand, Bally's, the Horseshoe, Fitzgeralds, the Hollywood, Harrah's, Sam's Town, the Gold Strike, and the Sheraton. Naturally, we've had time to visit all nine, and we've discovered "comp heaven." We've eaten out every night since we arrived, and we've yet to pay for a meal. We just go play for a couple hours, then ask for a buffet ticket! So far, we know we've eaten more than we've lost! The Hollywood serves whole Maine lobster on Friday nights--between us, we ate six of them last Friday night, and we also walked away with about $175 of the casino's money that evening. What a deal, huh? And we're staying at the Hollywood's RV park, where we get full hookups (including phone at the site!) for only $10/day. You can't beat that anywhere! It's a nice big pull-thru spot, with concrete pad and a good size lawn, too. We get free use of the hotel pool/sauna/exercise room, and there's a big fenced dog run here in the RV park. Unfortunately, the dogs have not yet visited there. If you try to walk our kids one at a time, the ones left behind bark enough to get us tossed out. Usually, I could take them all at once, but right now, I can't take the chance of getting jerked off balance. And Cory can't handle them, either. But they enjoy spending time on their leads with the nice grass. There's a big music festival on Beale Street in Memphis the first weekend in May, and we want to stay to attend. Then we'll head north toward Chicago... April 5, 2003 Pigeon Forge,
Tennessee But we got to glimpse Dolly herself as she paraded through the grounds (twice!), they still had the glassblowers and the blacksmiths, and you can still go through every gift shop and booth without seeing Dolly merchandised. There is not one poster or t-shirt bearing her picture, not one CD on sale. She's still promoting Tennessee entertainment, crafts and culture, not herself. I met Dolly once myself, a hundred years ago when I was a country DJ in Montana. She headlined at the local State Fair and I introduced her. I remember standing next to her backstage when we were introduced, looking down (have THAT picture in your mind?), and saying like some backcountry dufus, "Dolly, I am your biggest fan." She looked up (way up) and laughed, "Well now, girl, I believe you just might be!" April 1, 2003 Memphis, Tennessee Lynn drove down from Chicago on Sunday to join us for her spring break. The three of us toured Graceland yesterday...and I must admit, I had more fun than I expected to. It was interesting to see the 70s immortalized in a wealthy man's home--just like the rest of us, he had shag rugs on floors and ceilings, with lots of wood paneling, gilt, velvet and fake fur. It was like a time capsule...and rather surprising to realize that the King really lived rather modestly, considering his stature. We heard and saw dozens of performances on video and audio, and saw tons of memorabilia...we walked rooms and rooms of his gold and platinum records, music awards, humanitarian awards and charity recognitions. We even got to see the famous pink '56 El Dorado, as well as his Stutz Bearclaw limos and his private jet, the Lisa Marie. We're going on to Nashville today, then we'll be in the Knoxville area on Saturday for the opening day of the season at Dollywood. Since the shows at the Opry are only on Friday and Saturday nights and Lynn only has one weekend with us, we decided we'd rather spend it in Pigeon Forge. We almost missed that, since Saturday will be the first day of the season and Lynn has to be back driving her bus by Monday. March 21, 2003 Meridian, Mississippi March 17, 2003 Slidell, Louisiana It was stormy here--pleasant days, with temps in the high 70s, but we had 2-3 inches of rain most nights. Happily, our site had a concrete pad, so we were in no danger of bogging down. But the dogs and I experienced Louisiana swamps first hand--there wasn't a square inch of grass in the RV park that wasn't flooded and marshy! We made sure the dogs got their heartworm shots, because the bugs were out. (Barney also got his teeth cleaned. He still hasn't forgiven us.) We figure we saw more parades in the month we were in Louisisana than we have in the last 10 years and we have about 20 pounds of beads to prove it. While we were in the area, we did a swamp tour, visited an above-ground cemetery, and took a carriage tour of the French Quarter. We drove the longest bridge over water in the world (23.5 miles) and visited the Harrahs casino in downtown New Orleans (had tocouldnt find anywhere else downtown to park the B.A.T.!). We ate muffaletto sandwiches in the Central Grocery down in the open market, and had ettoufee and jambalaya on the second floor patio of a restaurant overlooking Bourbon street. We saw street performancesair brush artists, an escape artist, tap dancers, a Calypso acrobat team and of course, music. LOTS of music!
Here we are, touring the Honey Island Swamp, off the West Pearl River. Our guide was a local fella who really knew these bayous. The swamp was surprisingly beautiful, very quiet, with water that we were assured is usually clear and black, but was muddy after all the recent rain.
Yes, we really saw alligators, though they were so quiet in their early spring suspended animation that Cory is still convinced they were plastic props put there for our benefit. We also saw Great Snowy egrets, nutrirats (also known as water rabbits, they look like beavers with a rat tail), lots of turtles and, of course, beautiful groves of cypress trees.
Here we are on a balcony overlooking Bourbon Street. Note my plate, a Cajun sampler filled with jambalya, shrimp ettoufee, and red beans and rice. Note Cory's plate--a burger and fries.
It took this fellow just over five minutes to escape from the straight jacket after being chained by audience members. He was working the French Quarter.
Look fast--we passed rather quickly during our carriage ride through the Quarter--but that's Marie Laveau's House of Voodoo! We went back later on foot, but photos inside were strictly forbidden...under penalty of voodoo curse!
From the balcony above, we went down to the street for the joint Irish-Italian parade on Bourbon Street. Open containers are perfectly legal on the streets of New Orleans, so long as they're not glass. THAT could be dangerous!
This is St. Louis #3, one of the famous above-ground cemetaries in New Orleans. The crypt in front is a family tomb (I saw one with a date of 1780); to the left rear, you can see the four-tomb high wall-crypt that runs the full perimeter of the graveyard. Because most of New Orleans is below sea level, bodies couldn't be buried--they just floated to the surface in a month or so. So local ordinances required an embalming process that lasted just long enough for a funeral. A body placed in one of these tombs is "naturally cremated" within a year, allowing the tombs to be reused by generation after generation.
We attended the St. Paddy's Day parade in Slidell, where there was a twist. Not only do they throw green beads, but they also throw cabbage, Brussel sprouts, onions, potatos and carrots! We caught enough to have a nice Irish stew, as well as cabbage with our corned beef. March 4, 2003 Lafeyette,
Louisiana A few notes on the local jargoneveryone called us baby, including waitresses, cashiers, tour guides and gas station attendants. At one restaurant, the young lady waiting on us failed to say it; I asked where she was fromArizona. That explained it! And in Louisiana, if someone "passes a set of eyes at you," they've just given you SUCH a look! No one passed a set of eyes at us, though...everyone was universally friendly. And the Mardi Gras spirit was everywhere. A great place to celebrate our respective birthdays!
We saw five parades in Lafeyette alone, and collected our share of Mardi Gras beads at every one. We weighted in at 15 pounds of beads before we left town!
Costumes ranged from simple t-shirts to fantastic getups.
This is a town that has parading down to a fine art--the barricades stayed in place along the route all during the week, setting aside the two center lanes of four lane streets, so that traffic could move right up to the moment the parade arrived on each block.
Every parking lot along the route became the site of tailgate parties, barbeques...and street vendors, hawking toys and treats. They even sold beads, though why anyone would buy them is a mystery!
Night parades were even more fun, but harder to photograph! In Lafayette, the atmosphere was family fun, not raucous debauchery. (Dang!)
We also visited Vermillionville, an 1880s Acadian village where folk artists keep old skills alive. This woman is weaving baskets from split cypress.
This Cajun cook told us about being made to kneel on rice for hours in school for speaking French--the only language she knew, but illegal on school grounds in Louisiana until 1965. She fixed us the best "french toast" I ever tasted.
On our way to New Orleans, we stopped in at Avery Island to tour the Tobasco factory, in operation here by the McIlhenny family since Willim McIlhenny created the famous recipe in the 1870s. Yup, we got some! February 25, 2003 Abbeville, Louisiana When we pulled in, she walked out to
meet us carrying a wine glass, greeted me by name (correctly!) and told us wed
arrived right at happy hour. The park is small and overcrowded this week with Mardi Gras
visitors, their trucks and rigs, so I had to do some pretty fancy backing up to get into
the site (Cory even had to go out and block traffic on the road outside the park for me).
But with Cory directing me, I did it, first try, with everybody in the park sitting on
Bettys patio watching! Once we got unhitched, we walked over to the party.
Thats when they told us that the guy who pulled out of that spot Sunday morning took
nearly an hour to back into it last week
and his trailer was 6 feet shorter than
ours, and the big motorhome we had to serpentine around wasnt there then. We
actually got a round of applause. That led to a round of storytelling that lasted nearly
an hour.
Betty was our guide for our first crawfish boil--but once introduced, we found a lot more on our own. Trust me, fresh boiled crawfish here in Acadiana bear NO resemblance to crawfish you may have eaten anywhere else. Sweet, juicy, spicy and delicious! We miss 'em already! February 16, 2003 Houston, Texas
At the carnival in Houston, Cory couldn't resist calling everyone she knew to gloat that we were enjoying sunshine and 75 degree weather in February. That's the Astrodome behind her. February 15, 2003 South Padre Island, Texas Since we were so close, we also had a second chance to visit South Padre Island. We shopped at the tourist dives, picking up a selection of Hawaiian print shirts. We also saw some folks out windsurfing...and lamented that we are no longer young enough (ok, maybe the truth is, we're no longer brave enough) to try it.
A few years ago, Chicago sponsored a very successful art event called "Cows on Parade." In our travels, we seen lots of cities that have since done their own version--in South Padre Island, we found porpoises!
Here's Cory at the entrance to Jaws, one of the many beach-oriented shopping sites on the main drag on South Padre Island. Told you it was a tourist area! February 9, 2003 Brownsville, TX
We took the dogs for a run on the beach at Padre Island, which they thoroughly enjoyed. Afterward, Murphy sacked out for about 7 hours straight.
Wish the camera (or the camera operator) could have captured the beautiful lilac shades of the sunset at Boca Chica, just 10 or 15 miles from our campground in Brownsville. But you get the idea... Friday night was the Taste of Matamoros festival -- quite an experience. Leary about being in a border town after dark alone, we carpooled to the border with a group from the campground. We walked across La Puente Internacionale together, then crowded into a free bus to the school auditorium where the event was held. For our $8 admission, the libations flowed...free Corona and Coke, free food of all types (even sushi and Chinese), free music and dancing, from scantily clad Hispanic sweet-young-thangs wearing white Stetsons emblazoned with the stars-and-stripes, to folk dancers in all their traditional finery. The mariachi band was expecially good, and while Cory found much of the food a bit too exotic for her tastes, I enjoyed it all. We only stayed a few hours--somehow, loud music and crowds of people make your head pound even more when most are speaking a language you don't understand. I think one unconsciously listens harder...and consequently wears out faster! February 2, 2003 Matamoros, Tampa, Mexico We had a great time. Went to the
open market, bought the requisite tourist stuffa blanket, a pancho, some Mexican
silver earrings, and a backpack to carry it all back across the bridge. We also ate
churros from a street vendor. Its a tube of deep fried pastry about the size of a
hot dog, served hot with filling piped into the hollow center. We couldnt understand
the man when he tried to ask us what kind of filling we wanted, so he just picked one,
sweet and cinnamony, like a thin caramel. Delicicious. The shop owners in the market reminded us of walking past Sassy Sallys, a notoriously hyped slot joint (now gone) we used to visit in downtown Vegas. They come out on the street to grab you and do their pitch: Lady, come into my shop. No cost to look, lady. What you want, lady? Nice necklace? Blanket? Good prices here, lady. Special prices just for you, lady. Dont walk away, lady! In one shop, the aisles were so narrow that Cory couldnt get around the owner to get out again. He trapped her there, trying to sell her a $55 pancho, All handwoven by the Indians in (some unpronounceable Aztec-sounding name). The price dropped to $20 before she finally agreed and pulled a bill out of her wallet. The guy, seeing her cash, said, Give me $1. Looking bewildered, she did. $20 my cost, ladythis is my commission. What salesmanship, eh?
Cory at the market in Matamoros. Did you know that the country we call Mexico is actually named the United Mexican States? So you can't refer to "the States" here and expect them to know you mean the U.S.
Another view of the market. Cory bought a backpack to bring home all our loot. January
22, 2003 Brownsville, TX People were putting blankets over their plants, they were setting up shelters for the homeless, there was a run on propane and space heaters. After all, they were expecting night-time lows all the way down to 30 degrees!!! Sure, the daytime temps were in the 50s and 60s, but to these people, lows in the thirties cause a panic!! I don't know what they'd do if they saw a snowflake!
At home in Brownsville, we rest in the shade of three varieties of palm tree, with blooming magnolias flanking the street side of the 5er. And the park's heated pool and sauna are just on the other side of the palms.
Before we left Rockport-Fulton, we drove out to Goose Island State Park, where we found another Big Tree. This one is a coastal live oak.
When they're nearer to the water, the live oaks grow almost entirely horizontally toward the land side. We thought they were bent by the Gulf winds, but locals told us that it's actually the salt spray that they grow away from. These are on the grounds at the Fulton Mansion, below.
The Fulton Mansion was built in the 1860s and, for the times, was truly a magnificent home, complete with piped gas and indoor plumbing. Its basement was a cistern used for fresh water storage and cooling for the whole house. Actually, it's still pretty magnificent.
Pelicans on the old pier at Fulton Beach. We bought fresh caught jumbo Gulf shrimp about a half mile from here for $5 a pound. January 5, 2003 Corpus Christi, TX Today, we drove south through Corpus Christi and out onto Padre Island and the national seashore there. We found a 63-mile long stretch of RVer boondocking heaven. The beach is about 150 yards deep and hard packed, and up along the dunes, for miles and miles, one finds every variety of trailer, fifth-wheel and motorhome, from the little vans to the big diesel pushers, old rustbuckets to brand-spankin' new $100K coaches. Everyone faces their rig to the Gulf, and about half sit in the shade of their awnings reading or watching TV while they keep one eye on a fishing pole resting in a six-foot length of PVC pipe right at the waterline. There are no hookups and we have no generator to run my computers, so we can't join them...this time. But I have my eye on a Honda EU2000i that's supposed to run very quietly and weight only about 45 pounds...
Yup, it's Cory and the B.A.T., on the beach of Padre Island, enjoying one of our first up-close-and-personal encounters with the Gulf of Mexico! NOTE to friends and family up north: This shot is taken January 5, 2003. Yes, JANUARY!
RVs go on for miles and miles on Padre, one parked every few hundred feet, taking advantage of some of the mildest weather and prettiest beach we've had the pleasure to visit. January 2, 2003 Houston, TX
I wasn't prepared for how moved I'd be when I saw historic Mission Control. The first time I saw it, I was sitting cross-legged on the floor of the multi-purpose room at Newman Elementary School, where about 300 of us were crowded around one 18 inch black-and-white television to watch Mr. Glenn's flight. I was just as awed this time.
Yes, that is THE red phone--the one used by so many presidents to wish good luck and welcome home to our astronauts.
We weren't lucky enough to see any astronauts training, but that's a full-size mockup of the shuttle, where most will log far more hours than they ever do on the real thing.
Cory with a model of the Saturn rocket. We saw the real thing on the grounds of the Space Center, but it was too dark to get a shot outside by the time our tour reached it. |
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